Get Local: Gros Ventre Glamping
In my time in Jackson Hole, I’ve knocked off plenty of backpacking and day hiking, but have never been sure that glamping was for me. I love the simplicity of do-it-yourself backcountry adventuring: having everything needed on my back and setting up my own nest in the woods. This past weekend that all changed. There was no denying the enjoyment of the small luxuries that glamping allows. If you’re looking for a rustic weekend getaway in a remote, seldom-visited wilderness within a stone’s throw of home, the Guides of Jackson Hole Upper Falls expedition is the trip for you. 
We met our Guides of Jackson Hole trip leader, Trevor Bloom, in town and set out to the southeast for Darwin Ranch, a remote in-holding in the Bridger-Teton National Forest on the edge of the Gros Ventre Wilderness. After arriving at the scenic, historic Darwin Ranch and being greeted by the welcoming committee of ranch pigs, we set out for the trail with the usual weekend backpack, but it was plenty lighter than usual. We owed the fast-traveling to a string of pack horses, which had taken meals and sleeping gear out to our backcountry outpost before we arrived.
After hiking 5 miles along and above the winding headwaters of the Gros Ventre River, we arrived at the camp, which is in clear view of the stream’s Upper Falls. The dull roar of the pristine cascade, just a few hundred yards away, was the perfect audio backdrop — and natural sound machine that knocked me out come night. The anglers in the party took to the river after arriving, which offered up a mixed-bag of brook and cutthroat trout. Trevor got to work on making dinner while we settled into our tents, which were a synthetic rendition of the classic western canvas-style. Our makeshift home for the weekend was easily high enough to stand in, and outfitted with one or two cots with fresh linens and plush sleeping bags. Our exceptional dinner of steak, baguette, and roasted veggies was served at sunset. The food is catered by the Darwin Ranch, which brings it in from its sister ranch, a working cattle operation near Cody, Wyoming. Combining the setting and the cuisine made for an exquisite camp dining experience.
The next morning we awoke to the smell of bacon and a freshly prepared breakfast before a day hike to Brewster Lake, a piece of water tucked under the crest of the Gros Ventre Range. If hiking isn’t your thing, you have the option of sticking near camp, plying the water for trout, or exploring the many trails near the Upper Falls campsite. A few of us opted for the day hike, and we packed excellent Italian-style sandwiches prepared by the ranch before lacing up our boots for the 6-mile trek to Brewster’s shockingly blue waters. The stunning alpine scenery would have kept me occupied, but the experience was further enhanced by the Trevor’s impressive knowledge of the flora and fauna along the way. As a staff scientist for The Nature Conservancy, he easily answered every random plant and animal question that drifted through my head on a long hike. We finally arrived at the lake at the base of Triangle Peak to sunny skies after ominous rain clouds departed in the nick of time. Some of us fished, while I opted for a glorious nap. Although all food tastes good after a good hike, the lunch we put down was exceptional. It was certainly the first time I’d ever indulged in capers and olives while hiking. We fished and enjoyed an hour by the lake before setting back to our campsite for dinner.
Saturday night brought campfire-crisped cornbread, beef and veggie stew and apricot cake under the stars. Sunday morning we scrambled to a little waterfall up a tributary near camp to start our day before passing through camp and grabbing our day packs for the hike downstream to the ranch. Horses packed out our bigger bags, stuffed with everything we didn’t need for the day. We stopped for a break at the spectacular Ouzal Falls, which slides the Gros Ventre River down a 45-degree slab. This pit stop also featured a charcuterie board and more excellent fishing. We moseyed back to the Darwin, following the river bends and trying to entice a cutthroat or two along the way.
It was an action-packed weekend with a whole lot more farm-to-table dining and restful sleeps than I would have ever imagined. Plus, once we reached the ranch, we were graciously offered seats in the wood-fired hot tub overlooking the Gros Ventre. My two cents: Don’t overlook glamping. And I can personally attest that the Darwin Ranch is a grand place for a first-timer to try it out.
